Massawa, located on Eritrea’s northern Red Sea coast, is a city of stunning architectural and historical contrasts, built on two islands connected to the mainland by causeways. Once a vital port for centuries of trade, including the Ottoman, Egyptian, and Italian empires, the city’s unique position at the crossroads of Africa and Arabia has endowed it with a fascinating, layered history.

The city is dramatically split between the colorful, coral-block buildings of the historic island port and the more modern structures on the mainland. A stroll through Massawa Island is a journey through time. Despite the damage sustained during the War of Independence, the island retains a distinct atmosphere, with crumbling Ottoman and Italian-era architecture that tells a compelling story of resilience. Key sites include:

  • Imperial Palace Ruins: The former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie, a grand structure now standing as a beautiful ruin, offers a poignant view of the city’s past and the Red Sea.
  • Sheikh Hanafi Mosque: One of Massawa’s oldest religious structures, showcasing the city’s long-standing connection to Islamic culture.
  • Bazaar: A bustling spot where you can find spices, local crafts, and a glimpse into the port’s commercial life.

The architecture on the main island is characterized by traditional coral-block buildings and the striking Cisterns, which were engineered to collect and store fresh rainwater—a necessity in this arid environment. The climate here is significantly hotter and more humid than the highlands of Asmara or Keren, making the evening sea breeze a welcome relief.

Massawa is also the gateway to the beautiful Dahlak Archipelago, a collection of islands renowned for their pristine coral reefs and excellent diving opportunities. Visitors often take a boat trip to explore this marine paradise, which offers a stark, beautiful contrast to the desert landscape of the coast.

For those interested in Eritrea’s history, the city offers a powerful experience of enduring charm despite adversity, where the echoes of ancient trade and modern conflict resonate beneath the tropical sun. The relaxed pace, the smell of the sea, and the sight of dhows sailing in the harbor complete the picture of this historic and captivating Red Sea port.