Just a few hours northwest of Asmara, nestled in the Eritrean highlands, lies Keren (also spelled Cheren), a city often referred to as the “heart of Eritrea.” Keren offers a fascinating contrast to the modernist elegance of the capital, presenting a more relaxed, traditional atmosphere rich with historical significance, particularly from the battles fought here during World War II. Surrounded by rugged granite mountains, the city is a vital hub of culture and commerce.

The major highlight of any visit to Keren is the lively Keren Market, which truly comes alive on Mondays for the famous Camel Market. This spectacle is a quintessential Eritrean experience, drawing traders and buyers from across the region to haggle over camels, sheep, goats, and other livestock. Beyond the animal trade, you can wander through the covered food stalls fragrant with spices, browse the women’s market bursting with colorful fabrics, and observe silversmiths crafting delicate jewelry. The market embodies the vibrant daily life and traditional economy of the Eritrean highlands.

Keren’s rich history is visible in its colonial-era buildings and poignant war sites. During the Italian colonial period, the town served as a cooler retreat and a major center of industry. Today, you can explore remnants of this time, including the Italian Army Cemetery and the British Army Cemetery, which serve as solemn reminders of the fierce battles fought here. The town is also home to significant religious sites, demonstrating the country’s unique blend of traditions. The Sanctuary of Mariam Dearit, or the ‘Madonna of the Baobab,’ is a revered site of pilgrimage where a Black Madonna statue is housed within the hollow of a massive baobab tree, venerated by both Christian and Muslim locals.

Set amid wide, tree-lined streets, Keren invites exploration. Walking around reveals its calm, sunny disposition and a collection of old Italian buildings that speak to its past. By visiting Keren, you gain a deeper appreciation for the diverse cultural and historical layers that make Eritrea such a compelling and unique destination.